Dealers advertise low monthly payments and bury thousands in hidden fees due at signing. I negotiate your lease and give you one honest number — your monthly payment. That's what you pay to sign and drive. The same number you'll pay every month after.
That "$299/mo" ad? It's a lie by omission. Here's what they don't tell you.
That low monthly payment comes with $3,000 to $5,000 due upfront. Spread that across the lease and the real monthly cost is far higher than what they advertised.
Dealers rarely show you the interest rate on a lease. They use a "money factor" — a tiny decimal that obscures what you're actually paying in financing charges.
Acquisition fee. Doc fee. Dealer prep. Disposition fee at turn-in. Every line item extracts money without changing the advertised monthly number.
I negotiate your lease and roll everything into a single monthly payment. Your first payment is your sign-and-drive cost. Your last payment is the same number.
You never set foot in a dealership until you're ready to sign a deal you already agreed to.
Make, model, trim, your zip code, and your target monthly budget. Not sure yet? I'll help you figure out what makes sense.
I call multiple dealers, leverage inventory pressure and end-of-month quotas, and negotiate the cap cost, money factor, and residual to drive the real number down.
One monthly payment with everything included. I show you exactly what the dealer wanted to charge vs. what I negotiated. Complete transparency.
Walk in with the deal already done. Pay your first month's payment, sign, and leave. Same number every month for the life of the lease.
I grew up around the car business. I've been negotiating leases since before most people knew what a residual value was.
I grew up around dealerships — watching deals get structured, learning how lease pricing actually works beneath the surface, and picking up the language that moves numbers.
I've personally negotiated countless leases for myself, friends, and family. I know how money factors get marked up, which incentives dealers won't mention unless pushed, and exactly when in the month leverage shifts to the buyer.
You pay upfront so I can get to work. If I can't save you more than my fee over the life of the lease, you get a full refund.
Any new vehicle lease — any make, any model
Premium brands and high-MSRP vehicles
Plug in the advertised deal and see the true monthly cost once you include what's "due at signing."
This is the real monthly cost when you amortize the upfront cash across the lease term. DealShield negotiates a single payment with nothing hidden.
Full refund. You pay upfront so I can start negotiating immediately, but if I can't save you more than my fee over the life of the lease, you get 100% back. No questions asked.
I negotiate your lease so that every cost — cap cost reduction, acquisition fee, taxes, doc fees, everything — is rolled into a single monthly payment. Your first payment is your sign-and-drive cost. That same number is what you pay every month for the rest of the lease. No cash due at signing beyond that first month.
I negotiate the full deal and show you the savings amount before revealing the specific dealer or deal sheet. You see exactly what I saved you — then you decide to move forward. The deal details unlock after payment.
Most lease deals close within 24 to 48 hours. End-of-month deals can come together same-day since dealers are under the most pressure to move inventory.
Yes. Leases are where the most money gets hidden and where expert negotiation makes the biggest difference. By specializing, I know every lever to pull — money factor markups, residual adjustments, unadvertised incentives, dealer cash — to get you the best possible deal.
Absolutely. If you have a monthly budget but aren't sure which vehicle, I can run numbers across multiple makes and models to find the best value for what you want.
I work remotely and can negotiate with any dealer in the continental US. I just need your zip code so I can target dealers in your area.
One number. Nothing hidden. Walk in, sign, drive.
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